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Archive for March, 2010

Pantanal Wildlife – A Visitor’s Guide to Brazil’s Great Wetland

Posted by Nick Redmayne on 31 March 2010

Pantanal WildlifeFirst off, don’t panic!  This new Bradt guide to the birds and beasts of South America’s Serengeti isn’t another earnestly weighty academic tome whose presence would leave most travellers only enough luggage space for a pack of chewing gum and a thong.  Though its subject is expansive, and all major phyla are featured, Pantanal Wildlife is a slim, concentrated volume, encompassing 200 full-colour photographs and maps, that picks out wildlife highlights in Brazil, Bolivia and Paraguay.  Author James Lowen freely admits ‘This book has no pretensions to be a specialised field guide…(it) aims to be a one-stop-shop for wildlife watchers…  it looks across the wildlife spectrum, aiming to sate your curiosity about a critter you have just seen – or want to see.’

Pantanal wildlife is hugely diverse: 475 species of birds; 80 reptiles; 50 amphibians; more than 350 fish; and botanists suggest that the 1,700 plant species thus far identified represent only 50% of those present.  The Pantanal’s natural history diversity is matched only by its superlative proportions: the jaguar is The Americas’ largest cat; the hyacinth macaw is the world’s largest parrot; the green anaconda is the world’s biggest snake; the South American tapir is the continent’s largest land mammal; and the capybara is the world’s largest rodent.
As well as identification and behaviour, Lowen’s engagingly written text explores Pantanal ecology too – ‘Water – its presence or absence, its ebb or flow – is fundamental to all Pantanal life…  If the Amazon jungles provide the continent’s lungs then the Pantanal is the continent’s kidneys.’ Conservation is also discussed, particularly prescient in respect of the Pantanal – an area once solely exploited for fur, feathers and skins before the concept of wildlife tourism grew wings.  The guide’s Where to Go section gives practical advice on each region’s wildlife specialities, the best lodges, and how to get around.  So whether it’s your wish to bump into a myopic nine-banded armadillo, encounter a crepuscular colony of vampire bats, or get hip to the giant otters’ social scene, Pantanal Wildlife will point the way.

James Lowen returned to South American wildlife during a break from his career drafting environmental policy for the British government.  As well as contributing photographs to books, magazines, brochures and websites, Lowen also edits Neotropic Birding, the only publication specialising exclusively in South America birds. His spare time is now occupied with ecotourism consultancy and naturalist guiding aboard expedition cruise ships.

Title: Pantanal Wildlife
Author: James Lowen
Publisher: Bradt Travel Guides
Publication: March 2010
Price: £16.99
ISBN: 978 1 84162 305 4

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Media Flash 19th March 2010

Posted by Nick Redmayne on 19 March 2010

Author Comment

Botswana - Chris McIntyre

BotswanaDespite the fact that the No. 1 Ladies’ Detective Agency is off our screens and the dust has long settled since Clarkson, Hammond and May cut a rut through  Makgadikgadi Pans, Chris McIntyre reports there’s still news from Botswana.

Okavango has had a very high initial flood this year, though the levels are already subsiding.  Over the last few months several rivers that haven’t flowed for many years now have water in them.  The Savuti Channel last held water in the mid-1980s but it has been gradually filling up, and the water reached the Savuti Marsh in February …  this should help game in that area considerably.

On a less cheery note Botswana is increasing VAT by 2% from 1 April … so prepare for prices to go up a little across the board!

Chile – Tim Burford

ChileA series of seismic events has shaken the world of late, some with catastrophic effects others mercifully without great loss of life.  Bradt author, Tim Burford, comments on the recent Chilean earthquake.

The magnitude 8.8 earthquake which hit Chile on February 27 was 500 times stronger than the one which hit Haiti on January 12, but the country has actually escaped relatively lightly – the death toll has in fact been revised downwards from 802 to just 452, due to some double counting, and Santiago, the capital, and all the main tourist areas have suffered little damage.  The main exception is the small seaside town of Constitución visited by tourists travelling on a scenic narrow-gauge railway, where many lives were lost due to a tsunami following the earthquake.  However, Concepción, which suffered most damage, is a port that is bypassed by almost all tourists.

Not surprisingly, the tourism industry has been reporting cancellations, but there’s little need for this.  Journeys down the Panamerican Highway south from Santiago towards Temuco may take longer than usual, but air services are largely back to normal; the country needs and deserves support at the moment, so don’t worry about going there!

The Falkland Islands – William Wagstaff

Falkland IslandsNewspaper columns have lately been occupied by coverage of renewed territorial claims over the Falkland Islands made by Argentina’s President Christina Kirchner. Fuelled by patriotic fervor and potentially equally combustible petroleum reserves, where is this dispute leading?  Bradt’s Falkland Islands author William Wagstaff makes an astute observation.

The recent changes in Argentine shipping regulations seem to be designed to cause maximum annoyance on the Falkland Islands which in turn will only encourage the antipathy felt by the islanders towards Argentina.  Thus making them more determined to continue the oil exploration and as such bring about the opposite effect to that which Argentina seems to be aiming for…

New Editions

Uganda – Edition 6 – by Philip Briggs with Andrew Roberts

UgandaThis new rendering of Uganda has as you’d expect been fully updated via first hand on-the-ground research – no desk updates for Bradt guides.  Andrew Roberts, a Uganda resident for over 17 years, working extensively with the Uganda Wildlife Authority, has made significant input on this sixth edition.  Of particular significance is the inclusion of recently stabilised areas in the country’s north – Gulu , Kitgum and Atiak.  Following the 2002 Khartoum peace accord insurgents of Joseph Kony’s LRA (Lord’s Resistance Army) no longer found safe haven across the border in Sudan – as such there’s been no LRA activity in Uganda since 2005.  Uganda continues to be a hugely important destination for wildlife tourism and Bradt’s guide highlights the country’s wealth of natural history beyond the headline-making primates and ‘big five’ of the savannahs.  Designed to provide useful information for those travelling independently or with a tour operator Uganda maintains its position as the definitive country guide.

Ukraine – Edition 3 – by Andrew Evans

UkraineThe Orange Revolution may have turned a little red of late following the re-election of former Soviet era President Viktor Yanukovych.  However, Ukraine today is still a very different place than that which endured the disaster of Chernobyl under a shroud of Cold War denial.  This new edition of Bradt’s Ukraine details a destination that despite its wealth of attractions  still remains undiscovered by mass tourism.  Skiing, mountain biking and hiking all fall into Ukraine’s borsch bowl of activities.  Elsewhere, country homestay suggestions provide cultural insights combined with genuine Ukrainian hospitality.  Beyond, wildflowers and wildlife of the Carpathian mountains complement Crimean beaches and contemporary history in the most up-to-date, comprehensive and practical companion for all travellers.

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Alaska

Posted by Nick Redmayne on 15 March 2010

AlaskaBought from Russia in 1867 for US$7.2 million to become 49th state of the union in January 1959, Alaska’s mainland faces off the empire-formerly-known-as-evil across 51 miles of the Bering Strait.  Erstwhile Governor Sarah Palin keenly highlighted Alaska’s cosmopolitan geography, abutting Russia and Canada, to bolster evidence of her international experience whilst on the Vice Presidential campaign trail.  However, the aptly-named author of Bradt’s new Alaska, Traveler Terpening, doesn’t truck any political double-talk: ‘Alaska’s licence plate slogan “The Last Frontier’ says it all”, he comments.  ‘Alaska has almost a full square mile for every man, woman and child in the state…  Juneau has the dubious honour of being the only state capital not accessible by road – none leads in or out of the city…  The Alaskan mosquito – sometimes referred to as the Alaska State bird on account of its size – is plentiful… Alaskans over the age of 18 are legally allowed to keep and smoke less than one ounce of marijuana…’ – this final frontier may be the US but not as we know it.

Alaska is not generally a place one visits by accident, and a dignified period of research and planning is customary to avoid embarrassment.  Bradt’s Alaska is penned by a native, and author Traveler Terpening’s authoritative insights are gleaned from a lifetime immersed in his subject – his guide is dedicated to sharing knowledge necessary for a fulfilling visit.  Whale-watching, kayaking, hiking, fishing, together with explorations by road, rail, ferry, air and dog sled are all featured.  The state’s main towns of Anchorage, Juneau and Fairbanks are also covered in detail, as well as many minor settlements such as the 20-resident megalopolis of Chicken – the nearest vernacular approximation to Ptarmigan the original mining population could successfully spell…  The island chain of the Aleutians, its WW2 heritage and astonishingly rich marine environment, is also examined, complementing an already extensive illustrated guide to mainland wildlife elsewhere in the book.  Context is provided in descriptions of pre-European Alaska’s indigenous heritage, and of the impact made by late-19th-century gold rushes, a theme continued in contemporary discussion of those issues surrounding exploitation of natural resources today.  Those visiting Alaska simply to gawp at anonymous spectacle won’t need this book – those wishing to understand will find it invaluable.

Traveler Terpening is a travel writer and professional photographer specialising in the outdoors.  He currently divides his time between Homer, Alaska – where he organises the annual kite-surfing festival – and Arizona, where he’s studying environmental journalism.

Title: Alaska
Author: Traveler Terpening
Publisher: Bradt Travel Guides
Publication: March 2010
Price: £15.99
ISBN: 978 1 84162 298 9

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Yukon

Posted by Nick Redmayne on 15 March 2010

YukonIt’s time to set some back bacon sizzling on the Coleman, open a slab of Moleson with a chainsaw, stick your head in a tuke and say ‘Good Day eh..?’ to Bradt’s Yukon. Although readily admitting a penchant for checked shirts and women’s underwear, author Polly Evans is certainly no moose.  She’s swift to decamp from any and all Pythonesque clichés relating to the Yukon – ‘In the midst of such tranquillity, small moments enliven the senses: the sighting of a grizzly bear that sashays across the highway… an unexpected glimpse of the northern lights; the sound of a sled dog’s paw on snow, the taste of a slightly smoky cup of tea after a hard day’s hiking…  In my view, these simple pleasures have an intensity that the noise and bright lights of a city can never match.’

Throughout this first dedicated Yukon travel guide, Evans’s text is freshly wrought from first-hand material.  She hikes 32km of Chilkoot Trail following the footsteps of 1890s’ gold rush hopefuls, pans Klondike Creek for specks of precious yellow metal, drives the lofty Top of the World Highway to Tok, Alaska, and braves wolves, bears and hoary marmots beyond the Arctic Circle on the remote Dempster Highway.  However, one of Evans’s first-hand  – or should that be first-foot – experiences readers may choose to eschew is described at Dawson City’s Sourdough Saloon: the Sourtoe Cocktail, Yukon Jack whisky garnished with an unfortunate’s severed toe…  As well as recounting the Yukon’s inspiration to wilderness writers Jack London and Robert Service, and its contemporary role as redoubt for ‘the colourful five per cent’ of independent minded eccentrics, Evans offers travellers valuable practical insights that could save lives: ‘if a moose lays back its ears and its hackles rise… this is a good time to leave’; if your car is stuck in snow and the engine is running make sure the exhaust is uncovered – ‘it would be annoying to survive an accident and then asphyxiate from carbon monoxide poisoning’; and most importantly ‘never sneak up on a bear…’ An exemplar of Bradt’s reputation for providing a good read, to those holed up in their tents on the trail Yukon will provide a companionable addition to any chilly three-dog night.

Polly Evans is an award-winning journalist and author.  She’s written five narrative travel books, the most recent of which, Mad Dogs and an Englishwoman, tells the story of her learning to drive sled dogs in Canada’s Yukon.

Title: Yukon
Author: Polly Evans
Publisher: Bradt Travel Guides
Publication: March 2010
Price: £14.99
ISBN: 978 1 84162 310 8

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