Keeping his shirt on for a change, in summer 2009 Vladimir Putin demonstrated the one reliable feature of a Russian submarine – its ability to sink. Descending 1.4km to the floor of Lake Baikal aboard the imaginatively-named Mir craft, Putin claimed to be gathering data on the lake’s ecosystem, and not looking for oil and gas as many observers suspect…
Designated by UNESCO in 1996, Lake Baikal’s unique environment benefits from legal protection concurrent with its status. Thus far visitors to its pebbly beaches have been restricted by two decades of post-Soviet ‘free movement’, their ranks confined to non-oligarchical domestic Russian travellers, a few savvy French, and former East Germans. As Lake Baikal author Marc Di Duca reports, ‘research in Eastern Siberia is definitely a case of taking the rough with the smooth… infrastructure is threadbare, its people often grumpy and Russian bureaucracy inept and Byzantine.’ However, if you can smile and persevere, the underlying generosity of Baikal’s ‘jumble of cultures’ – at the confluence of Buddhism, shamanism and Orthodox Christianity – eventually wins over those who come to explore the lake shores. Semi-nomadic Evenks emerge from their wooden tepees to rub shoulders with the descendants of Polish-Catholic exiles, whilst sharp-suited Russian businessmen bark into their mobile phones. Activities from hiking, ice mountain-biking, dog-sledding and horseriding are all featured, allowing forays into the untamed Baikal countryside. Distinct flora and fauna is highlighted, from delicate White Baikal Anemones to rotund Nerpa seals, troubled Siberian lemmings and ferocious Pallas’s cats – amongst 1,455 endemic species manifesting unique features born of many millennia in isolation. Bradt’s Lake Baikal is the only English-language guide of its kind, and for Trans-Siberian travellers and others it’ll surely prove the catalyst that turns a brief stopover into longer exploration.
Marc Di Duca is a respected travel writer and a regular visitor to the countries of the former Soviet Union – his Ukrainian wife and in-laws have armed him with a sound knowledge of Russian. He freely admits it was the trainspotter’s travel dream of riding the Trans-Siberian Railway that first drew him to explore Siberia’s own ‘watery eye’ – Lake Baikal.
Title: Lake Baikal: Siberia’s Great Lake
Author: Marc Di Duca
Publisher: Bradt Travel Guides
Publication: February 2010
Price: £15.99
ISBN: 978 1 84162 294 1



