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Archive for February, 2010

Lake Baikal – Siberia’s Great Lake

Posted by Nick Redmayne on 25 February 2010

Lake BaikalKeeping his shirt on for a change, in summer 2009 Vladimir Putin demonstrated the one reliable feature of a Russian submarine – its ability to sink. Descending 1.4km to the floor of Lake Baikal aboard the imaginatively-named Mir craft, Putin claimed to be gathering data on the lake’s ecosystem, and not looking for oil and gas as many observers suspect…

Designated by UNESCO in 1996, Lake Baikal’s unique environment benefits from legal protection concurrent with its status. Thus far visitors to its pebbly beaches have been restricted by two decades of post-Soviet ‘free movement’, their ranks confined to non-oligarchical domestic Russian travellers, a few savvy French, and former East Germans. As Lake Baikal author Marc Di Duca reports, ‘research in Eastern Siberia is definitely a case of taking the rough with the smooth… infrastructure is threadbare, its people often grumpy and Russian bureaucracy inept and Byzantine.’ However, if you can smile and persevere, the underlying generosity of Baikal’s ‘jumble of cultures’ – at the confluence of Buddhism, shamanism and Orthodox Christianity – eventually wins over those who come to explore the lake shores. Semi-nomadic Evenks emerge from their wooden tepees to rub shoulders with the descendants of Polish-Catholic exiles, whilst sharp-suited Russian businessmen bark into their mobile phones. Activities from hiking, ice mountain-biking, dog-sledding and horseriding are all featured, allowing forays into the untamed Baikal countryside. Distinct flora and fauna is highlighted, from delicate White Baikal Anemones to rotund Nerpa seals, troubled Siberian lemmings and ferocious Pallas’s cats – amongst 1,455 endemic species manifesting unique features born of many millennia in isolation. Bradt’s Lake Baikal is the only English-language guide of its kind, and for Trans-Siberian travellers and others it’ll surely prove the catalyst that turns a brief stopover into longer exploration.

Marc Di Duca is a respected travel writer and a regular visitor to the countries of the former Soviet Union – his Ukrainian wife and in-laws have armed him with a sound knowledge of Russian. He freely admits it was the trainspotter’s travel dream of riding the Trans-Siberian Railway that first drew him to explore Siberia’s own ‘watery eye’ – Lake Baikal.

Title: Lake Baikal: Siberia’s Great Lake
Author: Marc Di Duca
Publisher: Bradt Travel Guides
Publication: February 2010
Price: £15.99
ISBN: 978 1 84162 294 1

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Greece: The Peloponnese – First Edition

Posted by Nick Redmayne on 15 February 2010

Greece: The PeloponneseAuthor Andrew Bostock won’t admit he was only in it for the Mani, but this peninsula of remote and nigh timeless highlands did inspire him to write a guide that later encompassed the entire Peloponnese. Today he suggests the Mani maintains ‘an air of being at the end of the world’ and that those venturing ‘off the beaten track even slightly… will find a Greece that has changed little in the last 20 years.’

For decades Greece has been known for ‘the islands’, and indeed a cruise through the Peloponnese sounds like an enticing if unexplored possibility – until one discovers that a steering wheel will be more use than a rudder in mainland Greece. Greece: The Peloponnese is not so elementary in its advice but publication does coincide with a change in Greek tourism as focus shifts from ‘sun and sand’ to ‘art and nature’. The mainland Peloponnese does still offer sun, sand and whitewashed villages but as the guide describes, there’s much more. Towering mountains invite hiking and even skiing, whilst white-water-filled gorges strike rugged routes inland. Elsewhere, classical sites from Olympia to Epidavros casually litter the countryside, along with medieval castles and Byzantine churches, many surrounded by verdant olive groves producing some of the finest fruits and oil in the Mediterranean. However, Bradt’s new book is not only a guide for those chasing the myths of ancient history. Contemporary Paneyeri (village festivals) are part of the noisy and sometimes alarmingly demonstrative life that exists in rural Greece. Paneyeri etiquette is offered for those travellers wanting to participate in celebrations without inadvertently attracting the evil eye by a) drinking to excess, b) suggesting that Greek coffee is actually Turkish, and c) tripping over the bouzuki ensemble causing injury (also see ‘b’). A world away from the pumping nightlife of Anglicised island resorts, the Peloponnese is slowly opening up. With Bradt’s new title as a companion, travellers are better encouraged to understand their significance.

Andrew Bostock has followed the typically ‘varied’ career of many writers, and after English at Oxford occupied himself tour guiding, teaching English in Greece and trying to compete with John Simpson in getting news out of Zimbabwe. He has spent the last few years trying to decide whether to live in England or Greece… or somewhere else entirely.

Title: Greece: The Peloponnese
Author: Andrew Bostock
Publisher: Bradt Travel Guides
Publication: February 2010
Price: £14.99
ISBN: 978 1 84162 307 8

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Abruzzo – First Edition

Posted by Nick Redmayne on 3 February 2010

AbruzzoFor many it’s a revelation that an untrammelled outpost like Abruzzo still exists in a country as perennially popular as Italy.  Whilst being a rugged redoubt for Marsican bears, Apennine wolves and understandably watchful Apennine chamois, Abruzzo is also home to 19 of Italy’s ‘most beautiful’ villages.  Low cost flights serve Pescara, its largest city, complementing excellent European rail and road links to a region only 15km from the border with Umbria.  Bradt’s first edition guidebook by Abruzzo-born Luciano Di Gregorio, invites readers to share the author’s insights and give Abruzzo the attention it has always deserved.

At the centre of Italy’s ‘leg’, almost two thirds of Abruzzo is mountainous.  Three national parks are covered in the guide, Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga, Majella and the National Park of Abruzzo, together encompassing the two highest peaks in the Apennines and 25 summits over 2,000 metres.  Di Gregorio suggests hikes, some following ancient transhumance routes, in these and other parks, and highlights wildlife watching opportunities, ski pistes of varying difficulty and of course where to kick back on the Adriatic’s sandy beaches.  Elsewhere, descriptions of traditional Italian life amongst the narrow cobbled streets of timeless hilltop villages vie with those of fast-moving fashionistas in Pescara, arrival point for most air travellers. This being an Italian guidebook, food and drink receive a higher profile than they otherwise might.  An hour by hour schedule for eating like an Abruzzese features unforgettable street staples such as Porchetta Abruzzese and the childhood food of generations, Sagne e fagioli.  Wines and spirits are also considered, from endlessly quaffable Montepulciano D’Abruzzo to the acquired bitter taste of Genziana liqueur.  Finally, it would be wrong to ignore the regional capital of L’Aquila.  Here, despite the severe destruction of 2009 and continuing travel restrictions, the guide retains pre-earthquake descriptions of churches, cathedrals and castles.  Notes indicate severity of damage and estimated period for painstaking reconstruction.  As Di Gregorio says, ‘Piano, Piano…con calma. That’s the way of it in Abruzzo.’

Luciano Di Gregorio was born and raised in Pescara, leaving for Australia during his teens before returning to Abruzzo in his 20s.  He is fluent in three languages – Italian, English and Spanish and dabbles in French and Japanese.  After a spell in London as a secondary-school English and language teacher he is now based in Melbourne, teaching and contributing to various newspapers and magazines on a freelance basis.

Publication: February 2010
Price: £14.99
ISBN: 978 1 84162 270 5

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